Deer Group Paddling Tales

The Deer Group Islands are in the south east corner of Barkley Sound off Bamfield, British Columbia. They are less known and harder to get to than the neighbouring Broken Group of Islands.

We love the Deer Group Islands for their ruggedness, arches and narrow sea caves that you can access by sea kayak or similar craft only. You may find yourself in water vapour clouds of fog temporarily, followed by clear skies, an ideal playground for navigating with a compass.

During this trip we heard whales at night and saw them from afar from the beach. Having paddled all day today, we are surprised that we have not seen any whales since we got on the water, only some splashing across the channel, some one or two nautical miles out on the water prior launching. What a tease! This way-too-far-away spectacle lasted throughout a relaxed breakfast.

Tired toward the end of today’s long and exposed paddle in stirred up waters and stiff winds, we pull in at a sandy beach for a last breather and deserved rest. Earlier this afternoon we paddled around the exposed southern part of Edward King Island. This section offers beautiful fresh air, good size swells, waves and stunning scenery, which become even more dramatic as winds pick up. At this beach we are also able to collect firewood for the night. I pack my kayak as full as possible with small and medium size pieces for our fire. Bending forward with my head down while stuffing the stern hatch with wood of different shape and size, I hear Fred shout: “There, there, behind the rock.” I look up, see the rock that Fred points at and ask, “What is it?” “A humpback, a humpback. Right behind the rock.” “Wow.” We look out in anticipation, waiting, looking, turning to the areas nearby and staring at the unbroken water surface. We were out on the water all day without any whale sightings that we so treasure. When we encounter whales, we make sure we stay well out of their way and respect guidelines to protect the animals and us. Humpback whales especially may not be aware of your whereabouts. We walk along the water at the beach. A large tail sweeps up for a second, then disappears behind a wooded headland area. Trees are blocking our view. We run across to the other side of the narrow section of the island to try and get a glimpse of a whale emerging on the other side. We move, carefully watching our step across driftwood, rocks and seaweed patches that are accumulating to decompose and make fertilising compost in some months. We wait, we watch. We see a hump, then a little more whale, then it disappears into the horizon. Lucky us. Laughing and giggling, feeling euphoric we climb back across rocks and logs to the kayaks to continue the task at hand: pack firewood and reach camp at daylight. We get busy, clipping hatch covers into place, spray skirts on and get ready to launch for the last 30 minutes of paddling today and to arrive before sunset. Good timing, calm seas, a beautiful sky with saturated shades of orange in variations of cloud patterns set a dramatic background for this sunset scene. Once more, the humpback passes our rock, tail up and out, diving and surfacing the hump and dorsal fin, then gliding right back into the water, repeating its movement as we notice a second whale join in. The distance is 100 feet maybe. Our private humpback show from the beach is special. We observe the two whales swimming out and away toward Wizard Islet, a rock formation with a navigational light along our route. We lift the loaded kayaks onto the water, hop into the cockpits and fasten the spray decks into place for a last short paddle to our base campsite. Happy with the encounter we had, we paddle on a somewhat calm sea with light winds. Fred says: “Nice, though some breaching and jumping would have been even nicer.” It does not take long till some noises carry our way; they sound like a motorboat that travels with a steep angle at high speed and keeps slapping onto a flat-water sea, splashing loud and bold. The repeated pounding has us turn and search the horizon. And then we see them: black large shapes shooting out of the water, then crashing back onto the sea. From some distance we try to make out humpback parts that emerge and slap the water: two black panels with white shapes crash and slash forcefully again and again onto the sea. We watch in awe for fifteen minutes. Joy and excitement once again make our hearts tingle. The sun moves close to the horizon now, we leave the scene to get on our way home to our camp, every so often turning back for another glimpse of breaching and splashing whales. What a spectacular humpback show!

The whale sounds dissipating, our camp is now visible, we look forward to reaching our beach where we will build a fire, make dinner and secure our gear for the night. We pull up the boats, unload firewood, Fred builds the fire, I cook a warming stew with ginger spices. Happy and exhausted, we celebrate the day’s paddle with its adventures, whales, sea lions, the big swells around Edward King Island, the deserted romantic beach that we had lunch at and the caves and arches we had explored. It has been a successful and eventful day. A warming fire and a hot chocolate are the perfect way to complete it.

Gazing into the glowing coals, we exchange fond memories of the previous year when a humpback whale was visiting our narrow channel between this very beach and the small island across. The noise of excited seagulls screeching and flying wildly about, scooping up prey, the surface of the sea stirred up with small silver shimmering fish jumping out of the water and the humpback scooping up fish in slow motion with its mouth wide open. Two nights in a row at our dinner time we had this special visitor show up and dine next to us.

Read Deer Group Paddling Tales Part 2.

If you like to join us this year for a five-day sea kayaking expedition in the Deer Group, let us know so we can make arrangements before our summer schedule fills up.

Ruth and her husband Fred teach sea kayaking courses for various skill levels on Saturna Island and the Deer Group Islands. Level 2 courses take on expedition style for five days with overnight camping, conducted at the Deer Group Islands or circumnavigating Saturna Island. Call if you like to learn sea kayaking, enhance your skills, join a paddling adventure or find out more about their programs.