Deer Group Paddling Tales – Part 2

Posted on March 23, 2019March 23, 2019 by Ruth Daber

The Deer Group Islands are in the south east corner of Barkley Sound off Bamfield, British Columbia. A previous article told the story of humpback whale encounters that we made during the second day of a multi-day kayak camping adventure in this gorgeous area. This is Part 2 of our trip.

The next day is a rainy one. The sound of the ongoing dribble keeps us cozy in our sleeping bags, reading. Just odd splashes of irregular waves coming into the bay 30 feet away spark my curiosity to peak through the opening of our well-used tent. The air is moist, and you can smell the earth and ocean. The shiny thin layer of water on rocks, shells and trees gives their subtle natural colours life. We enjoy some downtime after yesterday’s long paddle. The weather forecast predicts three more days of rain for this late autumn adventure. We opt to head back home later today.

Equipped in rain jacket and rain hat I crawl out of our tent to prepare breakfast. I had put up a shelter when we first arrived to be prepared for potential rain. Our green lightweight tarp is strapped over a ridge line and four corners connected with rope nicely tightened, up as high as I could reach. I inspect my back then first solo tarping job in action and troubleshoot it. Two more long sticks will help lift the edges. I watch how the rain slides off one side in a controlled stream as intended. The other side pools up, quite useful for washing dishes under the draining area when lifted slightly to roll over the edge. I am proud of the small accomplishment and glad to have shelter from the ongoing rain. Fred joins me for hot tea and a bowl of steaming cinnamon oatmeal with nuts and fruits. We watch the rain drizzle over the ocean with the warmth of a small campfire that Fred built under our tarp shelter. Being located in the fog bank, the Deer Group Islands allow campfires year-round. This place is serene, wild and beautiful even in the rain. We have had this islet to ourselves over the past days.

Skies clear, the sun gently warms and dries the ground as we break camp and pack our gear. We make sure to leave the islet as we found it, just taking with us what we brought, and beach found garbage we can fit. The way back to our car is a five nautical mile paddle, not too long. We should be able to get there within two hours, though the ocean is stirred up with variable winds and confused seas. In our kayaks we appreciate the skills we have learned over the past few years that help us make better judgement and deal with the dynamic conditions. We understand that our skills fit this sea state and that it is in the upper limits of when we paddle. We will need to cross the passage. Winds shift and change here, so does the direction of the waves, sometimes lifting our kayaks up high, sometimes lowering us down, unable to see the other. This sea state demands focus on the waves and limits your ability to turn around and look for one another. We stay reasonably close together to be able to see and hear the other. Waves often run sideways at us. The wind and waves sound loudly, and our voices don’t carry far. I am glad that we planned the crossing and have kayaked together enough to know the other’s ability, limitations and needs. Thirty minutes into the crossing we find ourselves in tune with the rocking waves, the paddle controlled by us, steadily moving us closer to the destination stroke by stroke. In these waves, the mind reaches a meditative state; I feel one with the ocean. There is something special about moving along on the water in a small vessel while being so close to the water surface, occasionally touching it.

Suddenly, I hear the sounds of large objects hitting the water surface through the wind. Sure enough, humpback whales are out on the passage. I shout “Fred, Whales. Let’s raft up and watch.” “No, let’s keep moving.” A little disappointed by the sensible husband, I must agree… it is best we carry on the crossing. Sometimes we have to choose wisely and give up on immediate gratification for a bigger outcome… we intend to catch the ferry home tonight. Rafting would delay us. Occasionally the whales surface at a distance. We keep extra space in these unsteady waters. Humpback whales in particular can be unaware of boats including kayaks.

As we reach the destination shore side, waves become smaller and winds settle. After a brief stretch of our legs and freshening up, we unload the boats, dry out the tent in sun and a light breeze, pack the car and load the kayaks. During the way home on a bumpy logging road, a stop for grocery shopping and a two-hour ferry ride, we exchange experiences and reflect on the past days. We plan to return to this special area soon.

If you like to join us this year for a five-day sea kayaking expedition in the Deer Group or Saturna Island, let us know so we can make arrangements before our summer schedule fills up.

Ruth and her husband Fred teach sea kayaking courses for various skill levels on Saturna Island and the Deer Group Islands. Level 2 courses take on expedition style for five days with overnight camping, conducted at the Deer Group Islands or the Southern Gulf Islands. The programs include theory and practical skills that are relevant for safe sea kayaking adventures. Call if you like to learn sea kayaking, enhance your skills or join a paddling adventure.

Deer Group Paddling Tales

Posted on February 24, 2019March 23, 2019 by Ruth Daber

The Deer Group Islands are in the south east corner of Barkley Sound off Bamfield, British Columbia. They are less known and harder to get to than the neighbouring Broken Group of Islands.

We love the Deer Group Islands for their ruggedness, arches and narrow sea caves that you can access by sea kayak or similar craft only. You may find yourself in water vapour clouds of fog temporarily, followed by clear skies, an ideal playground for navigating with a compass.

During this trip we heard whales at night and saw them from afar from the beach. Having paddled all day today, we are surprised that we have not seen any whales since we got on the water, only some splashing across the channel, some one or two nautical miles out on the water prior launching. What a tease! This way-too-far-away spectacle lasted throughout a relaxed breakfast.

Tired toward the end of today’s long and exposed paddle in stirred up waters and stiff winds, we pull in at a sandy beach for a last breather and deserved rest. Earlier this afternoon we paddled around the exposed southern part of Edward King Island. This section offers beautiful fresh air, good size swells, waves and stunning scenery, which become even more dramatic as winds pick up. At this beach we are also able to collect firewood for the night. I pack my kayak as full as possible with small and medium size pieces for our fire. Bending forward with my head down while stuffing the stern hatch with wood of different shape and size, I hear Fred shout: “There, there, behind the rock.” I look up, see the rock that Fred points at and ask, “What is it?” “A humpback, a humpback. Right behind the rock.” “Wow.” We look out in anticipation, waiting, looking, turning to the areas nearby and staring at the unbroken water surface. We were out on the water all day without any whale sightings that we so treasure. When we encounter whales, we make sure we stay well out of their way and respect guidelines to protect the animals and us. Humpback whales especially may not be aware of your whereabouts. We walk along the water at the beach. A large tail sweeps up for a second, then disappears behind a wooded headland area. Trees are blocking our view. We run across to the other side of the narrow section of the island to try and get a glimpse of a whale emerging on the other side. We move, carefully watching our step across driftwood, rocks and seaweed patches that are accumulating to decompose and make fertilising compost in some months. We wait, we watch. We see a hump, then a little more whale, then it disappears into the horizon. Lucky us. Laughing and giggling, feeling euphoric we climb back across rocks and logs to the kayaks to continue the task at hand: pack firewood and reach camp at daylight. We get busy, clipping hatch covers into place, spray skirts on and get ready to launch for the last 30 minutes of paddling today and to arrive before sunset. Good timing, calm seas, a beautiful sky with saturated shades of orange in variations of cloud patterns set a dramatic background for this sunset scene. Once more, the humpback passes our rock, tail up and out, diving and surfacing the hump and dorsal fin, then gliding right back into the water, repeating its movement as we notice a second whale join in. The distance is 100 feet maybe. Our private humpback show from the beach is special. We observe the two whales swimming out and away toward Wizard Islet, a rock formation with a navigational light along our route. We lift the loaded kayaks onto the water, hop into the cockpits and fasten the spray decks into place for a last short paddle to our base campsite. Happy with the encounter we had, we paddle on a somewhat calm sea with light winds. Fred says: “Nice, though some breaching and jumping would have been even nicer.” It does not take long till some noises carry our way; they sound like a motorboat that travels with a steep angle at high speed and keeps slapping onto a flat-water sea, splashing loud and bold. The repeated pounding has us turn and search the horizon. And then we see them: black large shapes shooting out of the water, then crashing back onto the sea. From some distance we try to make out humpback parts that emerge and slap the water: two black panels with white shapes crash and slash forcefully again and again onto the sea. We watch in awe for fifteen minutes. Joy and excitement once again make our hearts tingle. The sun moves close to the horizon now, we leave the scene to get on our way home to our camp, every so often turning back for another glimpse of breaching and splashing whales. What a spectacular humpback show!

The whale sounds dissipating, our camp is now visible, we look forward to reaching our beach where we will build a fire, make dinner and secure our gear for the night. We pull up the boats, unload firewood, Fred builds the fire, I cook a warming stew with ginger spices. Happy and exhausted, we celebrate the day’s paddle with its adventures, whales, sea lions, the big swells around Edward King Island, the deserted romantic beach that we had lunch at and the caves and arches we had explored. It has been a successful and eventful day. A warming fire and a hot chocolate are the perfect way to complete it.

Gazing into the glowing coals, we exchange fond memories of the previous year when a humpback whale was visiting our narrow channel between this very beach and the small island across. The noise of excited seagulls screeching and flying wildly about, scooping up prey, the surface of the sea stirred up with small silver shimmering fish jumping out of the water and the humpback scooping up fish in slow motion with its mouth wide open. Two nights in a row at our dinner time we had this special visitor show up and dine next to us.

Read Deer Group Paddling Tales Part 2.

If you like to join us this year for a five-day sea kayaking expedition in the Deer Group, let us know so we can make arrangements before our summer schedule fills up.

Ruth and her husband Fred teach sea kayaking courses for various skill levels on Saturna Island and the Deer Group Islands. Level 2 courses take on expedition style for five days with overnight camping, conducted at the Deer Group Islands or circumnavigating Saturna Island. Call if you like to learn sea kayaking, enhance your skills, join a paddling adventure or find out more about their programs.

Saturna Island Winter Paddling

Posted on November 23, 2018June 22, 2019 by Ruth Daber

Temperatures have cooled, we see more rain and wind but less small boats out and about. Yes, winter is approaching. While the weather pattern has changed dramatically, we can still have a great time kayaking our gorgeous coast. Get out more this winter. Paddle safely year-round.

Top Tips for Winter Paddling:

Dress for the occasion: Sea water at shallow beach accesses will be much colder this time of the year making getting on and off the water more challenging. The air is cooler and in combination with rain or spray water, everything will feel cooler in winter. Dress for immersion, even when you do not intend to swim. Layer up and ideally wear a full dry suit. Staying comfortable while exercising in warm clothing can be challenging. You will end up sweating. Choose underlayer fabrics that breathe and wick away moisture. While the perfect solution does not yet exist, do the best you can with functional clothing pieces. We often use marino wool blend fabric layers and top them with a thin fleece underneath our dry suits. The next option is a farmer john with a padding jacket and moisture wicking upper body layers between. Neoprene booties are very helpful in winter though they certainly get wet too. Wear a polyester or wool hat to reduce heat loss from the head. These types of fabric provide warmth even when a little wet. Avoid wearing cotton full stop. Cotton is slow to dry and has a cooling effect (only desirable in hot climate and warmer waters). Before I had a dry suit, I would wear gum boots to get in and out of the kayak, multiple layers of leggings, a fleece and a rain jacket. Paddling outings are cut short if you do not have the right clothing. I highly recommend investing a little into winter paddling clothing. We use our dry suits year-round when navigating cold choppy waters away from shore and practicing re-entries.

Keep the fingers warm: make sure you have drip rings on your paddle and keep your hands outside the water most of the time. If you opt to wear neoprene gloves, make sure that they are of thick enough material to actually provide warmth and that the grip you get in them works for you. I have paddled with thin neoprene gloves that provided a cooling effect which I only realised after I took them off. Pogies are another great option. They typically Velcro fasten over the paddle shaft and you can stick your hands inside of them, fabulously protecting your hands from wind, rain and cold air.

Be seen. Even on a sunny day, daylight is limited to shorter hours with just over 8 hours between sunrise and sunset in the shortest days of the year. Best plan to be on the water in the middle of the day or even earlier. Consider bringing a watertight flashlight and a glow-stick with you in an emergency dry bag, just in case you get delayed beyond your control when out. Have reflective tape on your kayak, paddle and clothing. Wear bright colours like yellow, orange and lime green. Sea kayakers are hard to spot, especially in slight chop and if they wear dull colours. Consider that less boats on the water in winter mean less people available that could spot and help you. Assume that vessels do not see you till very close, maybe too close. Avoid collision by making yourself visible. Paddle close to shore when possible.

Check the weather and check the weather again. Gather all the data on a single sheet (download and use our KayakingSkills’ printable pdf form Saturna Island Kayak Day Trip short), especially if planning a full day trip. Look for less wind (unless you are looking for downwind paddling conditions and are skilled and fit for it), more sun and less precipitation. How much wind is ok for you will depend on your skill level. For many hobbyist kayakers winds above 12 knots feel challenging. Between Remembrance Day and March 20^th, the marine weather forecast does not issue a “Strong Wind Warning” for our waters (which would be indicated at winds of 20 to 33 knots for the remainder of the year). If in doubt about the conditions, either do not go or remain in an area with easy and frequent landing options. There are windows of opportunity with sunny winter days. Enjoy the exhilarating experience of being in the fresh air on the water. It’s hard to beat!

Paddle with a partner. It is far safer to paddle with a similar or higher skill level partner. Email us to be included in our kayak group sessions. Join the Saturna Kayak Club if you are a resident of Saturna Island.

Float plan: Let someone know you are paddling, where to, and when you will be back. Make a clear arrangement with your float plan holder for the case that you are not back. Search parties in the dark are much more challenging than in daylight.

Go for shorter paddles and have an exit strategy to transition fast to getting dry and warm. Even an hour on the water feels great and you will need less time to warm up again if you get chilled or wet.

Launch and land safely: this starts with wearing the right clothing. If you try to avoid getting wet when launching and landing on a beach, you are increasing your risk of injury during these transitions. Balancing over a partially floating boat to stay dry is tempting, but not safe. Instead, wear clothing including booties that keep you warm and ideally dry. You can also launch from a dock if available. Check tides for water levels that will work for comfortable launching and landing at beaches.

Be conservative when leaving a sheltered bay: conditions around the corner may well be different. Our biggest concerns as paddlers are winds, waves and strong currents. Headlands often provide changing and challenging conditions.

Bring water, and an emergency snack, and if out for longer also pack warm liquids.

In addition to the usual safety equipment you legally must bring, make sure to always wear your PFD on the water and carry your VHF radio. I also bring a folded mylar emergency blanket in my dry bag.

Bonus tips: have some soup ready at home for when you return. All you got to do is heat it up slowly while you put away things from the trip and warm up. If you feel cold and cannot warm up easily, take a hot bath (remember to turn off that soup though till you are back to keep an eye on the stove).

Short Saturna Island shoreline paddles to do this winter – approx. total distance in nautical miles – time it takes when moving at good pace for intermediate sea kayaker (3 knots):

Winter Cove round trip – 1.5 NM – 30 min plus

Boot Cove round trip including loop around Trevor Islet – 1.75 NM – 40 min plus

Lyall Harbour around King and Queen Islets – 3 NM – 1 hr plus

Winter Cove and Irish Bay round trip – 3 NM – 1 hr plus

Boot Cove to Saturna Beach round trip – 4.5 NM – 1.5 hrs plus

Lyall Harbour to Saturna Beach round trip – 5.5 NM – 2 hrs plus (As you round various points, watch out for a change of sea state and make good judgement of your ability to paddle further prior continuing.)

Winter Cove to East Point one way – 6.5 NM – 2 hrs plus (Putting in at Winter Cove, make sure to check the currents for Boat Passage to go through at slack time. East Point take out point is a bit of a walk; a lightweight kayak pays off here. Doing this stretch one way is a good option if currents and / or winds are strong. You need to arrange transport on the other side prior going, and have some warm clothing and beverages stashed at take out. This can be a fast ride if currents are in favour.)

Saturna Beach to Taylor Point round trip – 6.5 NM – 2 hrs plus (Not many landing options. You need to qualify wind and waves before putting in and allow enough time. Beware that if winds are strong, paddling into them on the way back can be hard and slow you down to crawling speed at full effort. There is no take out option for your kayak at Taylor Point; be prepared to paddle both ways.)

If you catch a high tide at Lyall Harbour, be sure to check out Lyall Creek also. It is mystical in the wintertime when you can paddle a little into this otherwise hidden little gem.

If you love kayaking in the summertime, give winter paddling a chance. It is an amazing experience when picking the right day. Fred and I had some of the best paddles in winter. Tides are also often in favour for launching and landing.

Happy Winter Paddling!

Kayaking with Orcas

Posted on September 21, 2017September 25, 2017 by Ruth Daber

It is Sunday night on Cabbage Island.

Midnight! Tomorrow, Monday, will start within seconds. I should be sleeping…

I can’t. My mind is stirred up. Today was a great day.
No. It was beyond great. Today was an unbelievable day!

I close my eyes and I can see them again, the gentle giants, as they glide through the sea, as they blow water spray up high.

Did they see me?

Did they notice me?

What were they thinking?

Here is a true story. I am too excited to sleep. A whale passed me on the right, another on the left and three others must have gone underneath my kayak. And this is how it happened:

The wind blows strong. I decide to stay close to shore as I leave Narvaez Bay campground. Cliffside’s shoreline protects me from gusting winds. It really is quite pleasant paddling here. It is sunny and my dry-suit keeps me warm. I made the right choice crossing the bay and following the shoreline: no wind and sometimes currents in my favour.
Then I hear the blows. Two of them. Many times had I turned around looking for the source of blow-like sounds and whales, only to find the sound was a creation of a wave hitting an air pocket inside some rocks.

I hear more blows. anticipating nothing, a rock, or maybe a seal, I turn and see two black forms diving and surfacing. I wonder if they are harbour porpoises. I heard porpoises regularly come to Narvaez Bay.

They come closer. They do not move like porpoises. Porpoises create more of a circular shape as they surface and do not show much of themselves. These fins are taller and they also are blowing air and water up high… not like porpoises. Are there orcas in Narvaez Bay? I never heard about that before, so I remain skeptical.

But these fins moving toward me are blowing air and water, making these blowing sounds, too.

They must be whales. As they come closer, I see black and white areas within the shapes. They come toward me. My heart is racing. I pull out my camera, making sure to keep it dry. I still do not own one of these nice waterproof cameras that I really should have right now.

I decide to film rather than take pictures, as this is going to be the sure way to capture something.

Camera ready, I realise I am on my own, on the water, in my kayak, nobody sees me and I count 5 orcas moving toward me.

What if…

I loose my balance?

I drop my phone? My emergency contact would not get her 4 pm message as arranged and worry about me.

I come back to the moment, camera ready and filming.

Now, no whales in sight. Nothing for 5 then 10 seconds, my hands slightly shaking.

Then, on my right: a slow moving gentle giant of the sea. Graceful, majestic, magnificent, blowing air and water. The moment he is under water, I see another on my left. Wow. Beauty, just beauty. What happened to the other three? Their dorsal fins appear out of the water, some 20 metres away, in front of me. They must have gone underneath my kayak.

What would they be thinking? What are they doing?

I am in love. I pause as I see the gently giants move into the distance till they dive out of sight.
It is time to carry on with my journey. I don’t want to follow too close. Leaving a gap, I paddle on.

My heart is overjoyed, my hands still shaking; I am happy I had this experience. What more can one wish for? It was a unique encounter, just me and 5 whales. They have disappeared. I do not see them anymore. I keep paddling. I am happy.

There they are again; they turn around.

Really? I see them getting closer.
This time I put my camera away and just enjoy their magnificent movements and their impressive size.

The gentle giants pass me once more.

I am in love, in orca love. I watch as one dives down, followed by another in the same location; another follows. It seems like a dance. Maybe they are feeding. I do not know. They stay in the same spot for 10 minutes, maybe 20, maybe longer.

Time is confusing, I watch the orcas and their continuous dance.
It is time to depart to go to my 4 pm check-in appointment with Kate. I already know I do not get a signal with my phone and I have to get around Boiling Reef when currents are slow; I cannot risk being late. I say farewell to the whales and paddle on, happy in my heart.

Video footage of my orca encounter below. I have edited into a 2 minute movie titled: Kayaking with Orcas.