SRKW Interim and Sea Kayakers Boiling Reef Saturna Island

SRKW Interim Order and Sea Kayakers

PLEASE NOTE: The information in this article is of 2019. There have been changes for 2024 measures. 

In addition please check under Interim Sanctuary Zones on this link about special rules applicable to human powered vessels.

From the perspective of a Saturna Island based Sea Kayaker and Paddle Canada certified Sea Kayaking Instructor.

Sea kayaking is a great way to explore Saturna Island and the Salish Sea. BC Marine Trails connect some of the Gulf Islands for kayakers, going around the east side of Saturna. The route connects Narvaez Bay and Cabbage Island campsites that have marine access. We wanted to know if the new Interim Zone to protect the Southern Resident killer whales (SRKW) would mean an end to circumnavigating Saturna Island by sea kayak.

SRKW Boiling Reef Interim Zone – shaded

The image that I drew over a nautical chart illustrates the Interim Zone (Saturna Island portion shown only, gray shade) which prohibits general vessel traffic including kayakers between June 1st to October 31st.

Here is a link to the Transport Canada issued Interim Order.

Sea kayakers travelling around Saturna Island must pass the east side of Saturna cautiously; keeping in mind currents, shipping channels and the United States border. A previous article took a look at currents around Boiling Reef. Avoiding the Interim Zone increases risks.

I compared two likely routes from the south east side of Narveaz Bay to Tumbo Island (both locations are en route when circumnavigating Saturna). The white line is the safer shore paddle route (about 2.6 nautical miles (NM)), the black line (about 3.5 NM) that avoids the Interim Zone is less safe.

SRKW Interim and Sea Kayakers Boiling Reef Saturna Island

While it potentially only takes 20 minutes longer to travel this way, it means that about 2 NM (40 minutes paddling for a good paddler and good conditions) would be in waters that are hazardous. Keeping track of the exact location of oneself and the Interim zone while travelling in a sea kayak and avoiding the shipping lane, requires good GPS technology or advanced navigation skills. There are no markers on the water. Sea kayakers most often travel along shores.

A safety-stop at Shell Beach helps a kayaker to assess current conditions for safe paddling (especially if travelling south). Whales do not usually come to Shell Beach, but technically speaking it is in the Zone. I had one close encounter with killer whales in a sea kayak. The whales were Transients and outside the Interim Zone, close to Fiddler’s Cove. The Interim Zone at large is mostly a place for transiting in a kayak due to the strong currents that often prevail… idling for long periods is rarely an option.

Saturna Islander, David Osborne phoned Transport Canada and received an official email response addressing some of his concerns.

Find the full email. Here is an extract:

“However, marine safety is priority. If it is unsafe to comply with the rules, vessel operators are exempted to avoid immediate or unforeseen danger. If this is the case, Kayakers must transit through the area (cannot idle) and stay a minimum 400 metres from whales when safe to do so. ”

So, if you see kayakers transiting the Interim Zone, they are likely doing so for marine safety reasons.

KayakingSkills.com promote best practices regarding wildlife, i.e. to not disturb the animal’s natural behaviour or put oneself at risk and to abide by advised distances when safe to do so.

To conclude, circumnavigation of Saturna Island is possible and if it is unsafe to comply with the Interim Zone, it is appropriate to transit through it.

Read FAQs on the Interim Order here.

Happy & Safe Paddling!

Hovercraft 1

Boiling Reef Rescue by Hovercraft

Pictures taken by Louise Peramaki

Easter 2019, Saturna Island

Currents at Boiling Reef during ebb at a spring tide

Boating Hazards at Boiling Reef, East Point

Recent rescue scenarios at Boiling Reef prompted me to get this article out quickly. Just this past Easter Sunday two people using a small inflatable boat who had drifted beyond their control were rescued from the reef by Hovercraft thanks to the emergency call-out by some onlookers. A sailboat stranded on the reef and at several occasions over the past years, kayaks have capsized, and the paddlers were unable to re-enter without outside assistance, sometimes capsizing their peers that tried to help.

Visitors to Saturna Island are often unaware of the hazardous waters at Boiling Reef, East Point.

Look at the Nautical Chart and Current Atlas images to notice the hazards in the area. Both publications can be purchased at marine stores.

Boiling Reef, East Point Area

Unless you fully understand when to go kayaking (or boating in general), take a course first. These waters require the right boat, skills and conditions to safely navigate them. Shell Beach at East Point can occur deceivingly calm and sheltered. The current flowing between Saturna and Tumbo islands moves toward Boiling Reef at flood and ebb. A small vessel that is lightweight with a large surface area (i.e. inflatable kayak) quickly acts like a sail and becomes impossible to control in currents with enough wind added, even for an athletic person. Here strong currents, rips, eddies, waves and increase of wind effects are not obvious to the untrained eye and using a marine chart is crucial to help identify hazards.

Additional factors: Spring tides around full and new moons mean greater water fluctuation and faster currents, increasing the risk of capsize or being carried out and off to the United States. Capsize of any vessel can potentially lead to its passenger’s death by drowning or hypothermia after prolonged exposure to cold water.

When approaching a headland (i.e. Monarch Head, East Point), currents that funnel or form eddies can change significantly, also wind speed and direction, potentially resulting in a quite different sea state.

From East Point along Cliffside and all the way to Monarch Head there are potentially strong currents also, even at the occasion that Boiling Reef itself shows little indication. Our resources page has a link to current speed data for Boundary Pass near East Point.

Sea kayaks are designed with the ocean in mind but require training and practice for proper use. Some are intended to handle waves and dynamic conditions while others target forward speed on flat water and require more balancing skills. Recreational kayaks from large retail stores are typically made for flat, sheltered water and are unsuitable for venturing into areas like Boiling Reef, East Point. Some do not have enclosed buoyant compartments that displace water to prevent sinking if capsized.

Things you can do to paddle safely: take a course and learn about safe paddling conditions, gather local knowledge of areas you intend to explore, practice rescues, learn risk assessment and reading nautical charts, use the right boat and safety equipment, paddle with peers that also know how to rescue you, check weather, tides and currents, paddle in conditions that you are skilled to handle, and file a float plan with a reliable friend. Wear immersion gear and PFD, we are surrounded by cold water throughout the year. Avoid strong currents by choosing neap tides around first and third quarter moons. Use our KayakingSkills.com Saturna Kayaking Resources page.

KayakingSkills.com teach essentials of tides and currents and about hazards to avoid on your sea kayaking adventures. Our intermediate courses include rescue practices in waves and currents.

 

Deer Group Islands the Tarp

Deer Group Paddling Tales – Part 2

The Deer Group Islands are in the south east corner of Barkley Sound off Bamfield, British Columbia. A previous article told the story of humpback whale encounters that we made during the second day of a multi-day kayak camping adventure in this gorgeous area. This is Part 2 of our trip.

The next day is a rainy one. The sound of the ongoing dribble keeps us cozy in our sleeping bags, reading. Just odd splashes of irregular waves coming into the bay 30 feet away spark my curiosity to peak through the opening of our well-used tent. The air is moist, and you can smell the earth and ocean. The shiny thin layer of water on rocks, shells and trees gives their subtle natural colours life. We enjoy some downtime after yesterday’s long paddle. The weather forecast predicts three more days of rain for this late autumn adventure. We opt to head back home later today.

Equipped in rain jacket and rain hat I crawl out of our tent to prepare breakfast. I had put up a shelter when we first arrived to be prepared for potential rain. Our green lightweight tarp is strapped over a ridge line and four corners connected with rope nicely tightened, up as high as I could reach. I inspect my back then first solo tarping job in action and troubleshoot it. Two more long sticks will help lift the edges. I watch how the rain slides off one side in a controlled stream as intended. The other side pools up, quite useful for washing dishes under the draining area when lifted slightly to roll over the edge. I am proud of the small accomplishment and glad to have shelter from the ongoing rain. Fred joins me for hot tea and a bowl of steaming cinnamon oatmeal with nuts and fruits. We watch the rain drizzle over the ocean with the warmth of a small campfire that Fred built under our tarp shelter. Being located in the fog bank, the Deer Group Islands allow campfires year-round. This place is serene, wild and beautiful even in the rain. We have had this islet to ourselves over the past days.

Deer Group Islands in the sunshine

Skies clear, the sun gently warms and dries the ground as we break camp and pack our gear. We make sure to leave the islet as we found it, just taking with us what we brought, and beach found garbage we can fit. The way back to our car is a five nautical mile paddle, not too long. We should be able to get there within two hours, though the ocean is stirred up with variable winds and confused seas. In our kayaks we appreciate the skills we have learned over the past few years that help us make better judgement and deal with the dynamic conditions. We understand that our skills fit this sea state and that it is in the upper limits of when we paddle. We will need to cross the passage. Winds shift and change here, so does the direction of the waves, sometimes lifting our kayaks up high, sometimes lowering us down, unable to see the other. This sea state demands focus on the waves and limits your ability to turn around and look for one another. We stay reasonably close together to be able to see and hear the other. Waves often run sideways at us. The wind and waves sound loudly, and our voices don’t carry far. I am glad that we planned the crossing and have kayaked together enough to know the other’s ability, limitations and needs. Thirty minutes into the crossing we find ourselves in tune with the rocking waves, the paddle controlled by us, steadily moving us closer to the destination stroke by stroke. In these waves, the mind reaches a meditative state; I feel one with the ocean. There is something special about moving along on the water in a small vessel while being so close to the water surface, occasionally touching it.

Suddenly, I hear the sounds of large objects hitting the water surface through the wind. Sure enough, humpback whales are out on the passage. I shout “Fred, Whales. Let’s raft up and watch.” “No, let’s keep moving.” A little disappointed by the sensible husband, I must agree… it is best we carry on the crossing. Sometimes we have to choose wisely and give up on immediate gratification for a bigger outcome… we intend to catch the ferry home tonight. Rafting would delay us. Occasionally the whales surface at a distance. We keep extra space in these unsteady waters. Humpback whales in particular can be unaware of boats including kayaks.

As we reach the destination shore side, waves become smaller and winds settle. After a brief stretch of our legs and freshening up, we unload the boats, dry out the tent in sun and a light breeze, pack the car and load the kayaks. During the way home on a bumpy logging road, a stop for grocery shopping and a two-hour ferry ride, we exchange experiences and reflect on the past days. We plan to return to this special area soon.

Welcome to Bamfield sign near the Deer Group Islands

If you like to join us this year for a five-day sea kayaking expedition in the Deer Group or Saturna Island, let us know so we can make arrangements before our summer schedule fills up.

Ruth and her husband Fred teach sea kayaking courses for various skill levels on Saturna Island and the Deer Group Islands. Level 2 courses take on expedition style for five days with overnight camping, conducted at the Deer Group Islands or the Southern Gulf Islands. The programs include theory and practical skills that are relevant for safe sea kayaking adventures. Call if you like to learn sea kayaking, enhance your skills or join a paddling adventure.

Sea Caves at the Deer Group Islands, Barkley Sound

Deer Group Paddling Tales

The Deer Group Islands are in the south east corner of Barkley Sound off Bamfield, British Columbia. They are less known and harder to get to than the neighbouring Broken Group of Islands.

Deer Group Islands, Barkley Sound

We love the Deer Group Islands for their ruggedness, arches and narrow sea caves that you can access by sea kayak or similar craft only. You may find yourself in water vapour clouds of fog temporarily, followed by clear skies, an ideal playground for navigating with a compass.

Fog in the Deer Group Islands, Barkley Sound

During this trip we heard whales at night and saw them from afar from the beach. Having paddled all day today, we are surprised that we have not seen any whales since we got on the water, only some splashing across the channel, some one or two nautical miles out on the water prior launching. What a tease! This way-too-far-away spectacle lasted throughout a relaxed breakfast.

Tired toward the end of today’s long and exposed paddle in stirred up waters and stiff winds, we pull in at a sandy beach for a last breather and deserved rest. Earlier this afternoon we paddled around the exposed southern part of Edward King Island. This section offers beautiful fresh air, good size swells, waves and stunning scenery, which become even more dramatic as winds pick up. At this beach we are also able to collect firewood for the night. I pack my kayak as full as possible with small and medium size pieces for our fire. Bending forward with my head down while stuffing the stern hatch with wood of different shape and size, I hear Fred shout: “There, there, behind the rock.” I look up, see the rock that Fred points at and ask, “What is it?” “A humpback, a humpback. Right behind the rock.” “Wow.” We look out in anticipation, waiting, looking, turning to the areas nearby and staring at the unbroken water surface. We were out on the water all day without any whale sightings that we so treasure. When we encounter whales, we make sure we stay well out of their way and respect guidelines to protect the animals and us. Humpback whales especially may not be aware of your whereabouts. We walk along the water at the beach. A large tail sweeps up for a second, then disappears behind a wooded headland area. Trees are blocking our view. We run across to the other side of the narrow section of the island to try and get a glimpse of a whale emerging on the other side. We move, carefully watching our step across driftwood, rocks and seaweed patches that are accumulating to decompose and make fertilising compost in some months. We wait, we watch. We see a hump, then a little more whale, then it disappears into the horizon. Lucky us. Laughing and giggling, feeling euphoric we climb back across rocks and logs to the kayaks to continue the task at hand: pack firewood and reach camp at daylight. We get busy, clipping hatch covers into place, spray skirts on and get ready to launch for the last 30 minutes of paddling today and to arrive before sunset. Good timing, calm seas, a beautiful sky with saturated shades of orange in variations of cloud patterns set a dramatic background for this sunset scene. Once more, the humpback passes our rock, tail up and out, diving and surfacing the hump and dorsal fin, then gliding right back into the water, repeating its movement as we notice a second whale join in. The distance is 100 feet maybe. Our private humpback show from the beach is special. We observe the two whales swimming out and away toward Wizard Islet, a rock formation with a navigational light along our route. We lift the loaded kayaks onto the water, hop into the cockpits and fasten the spray decks into place for a last short paddle to our base campsite. Happy with the encounter we had, we paddle on a somewhat calm sea with light winds. Fred says: “Nice, though some breaching and jumping would have been even nicer.” It does not take long till some noises carry our way; they sound like a motorboat that travels with a steep angle at high speed and keeps slapping onto a flat-water sea, splashing loud and bold. The repeated pounding has us turn and search the horizon. And then we see them: black large shapes shooting out of the water, then crashing back onto the sea. From some distance we try to make out humpback parts that emerge and slap the water: two black panels with white shapes crash and slash forcefully again and again onto the sea. We watch in awe for fifteen minutes. Joy and excitement once again make our hearts tingle. The sun moves close to the horizon now, we leave the scene to get on our way home to our camp, every so often turning back for another glimpse of breaching and splashing whales. What a spectacular humpback show!

The whale sounds dissipating, our camp is now visible, we look forward to reaching our beach where we will build a fire, make dinner and secure our gear for the night. We pull up the boats, unload firewood, Fred builds the fire, I cook a warming stew with ginger spices. Happy and exhausted, we celebrate the day’s paddle with its adventures, whales, sea lions, the big swells around Edward King Island, the deserted romantic beach that we had lunch at and the caves and arches we had explored. It has been a successful and eventful day. A warming fire and a hot chocolate are the perfect way to complete it.

Gazing into the glowing coals, we exchange fond memories of the previous year when a humpback whale was visiting our narrow channel between this very beach and the small island across. The noise of excited seagulls screeching and flying wildly about, scooping up prey, the surface of the sea stirred up with small silver shimmering fish jumping out of the water and the humpback scooping up fish in slow motion with its mouth wide open. Two nights in a row at our dinner time we had this special visitor show up and dine next to us.

Read Deer Group Paddling Tales Part 2.

Humpback whale visiting our islet for dinner. sea gull feeding frenzy at the Deer Group, Barkley Sound

If you like to join us this year for a five-day sea kayaking expedition in the Deer Group, let us know so we can make arrangements before our summer schedule fills up.

Ruth and her husband Fred teach sea kayaking courses for various skill levels on Saturna Island and the Deer Group Islands. Level 2 courses take on expedition style for five days with overnight camping, conducted at the Deer Group Islands or circumnavigating Saturna Island. Call if you like to learn sea kayaking, enhance your skills, join a paddling adventure or find out more about their programs.

Winter Paddling on Saturna Island with KayakingSkills

Saturna Island Winter Paddling

Temperatures have cooled, we see more rain and wind but less small boats out and about. Yes, winter is approaching. While the weather pattern has changed dramatically, we can still have a great time kayaking our gorgeous coast. Get out more this winter. Paddle safely year-round.

Top Tips for Winter Paddling:

Dress for the occasion: Sea water at shallow beach accesses will be much colder this time of the year making getting on and off the water more challenging. The air is cooler and in combination with rain or spray water, everything will feel cooler in winter. Dress for immersion, even when you do not intend to swim. Layer up and ideally wear a full dry suit. Staying comfortable while exercising in warm clothing can be challenging. You will end up sweating. Choose underlayer fabrics that breathe and wick away moisture. While the perfect solution does not yet exist, do the best you can with functional clothing pieces. We often use marino wool blend fabric layers and top them with a thin fleece underneath our dry suits. The next option is a farmer john with a padding jacket and moisture wicking upper body layers between. Neoprene booties are very helpful in winter though they certainly get wet too. Wear a polyester or wool hat to reduce heat loss from the head. These types of fabric provide warmth even when a little wet. Avoid wearing cotton full stop. Cotton is slow to dry and has a cooling effect (only desirable in hot climate and warmer waters). Before I had a dry suit, I would wear gum boots to get in and out of the kayak, multiple layers of leggings, a fleece and a rain jacket. Paddling outings are cut short if you do not have the right clothing. I highly recommend investing a little into winter paddling clothing. We use our dry suits year-round when navigating cold choppy waters away from shore and practicing re-entries.

Keep the fingers warm: make sure you have drip rings on your paddle and keep your hands outside the water most of the time. If you opt to wear neoprene gloves, make sure that they are of thick enough material to actually provide warmth and that the grip you get in them works for you. I have paddled with thin neoprene gloves that provided a cooling effect which I only realised after I took them off. Pogies are another great option. They typically Velcro fasten over the paddle shaft and you can stick your hands inside of them, fabulously protecting your hands from wind, rain and cold air.

Be seen. Even on a sunny day, daylight is limited to shorter hours with just over 8 hours between sunrise and sunset in the shortest days of the year. Best plan to be on the water in the middle of the day or even earlier. Consider bringing a watertight flashlight and a glow-stick with you in an emergency dry bag, just in case you get delayed beyond your control when out. Have reflective tape on your kayak, paddle and clothing. Wear bright colours like yellow, orange and lime green. Sea kayakers are hard to spot, especially in slight chop and if they wear dull colours. Consider that less boats on the water in winter mean less people available that could spot and help you. Assume that vessels do not see you till very close, maybe too close. Avoid collision by making yourself visible. Paddle close to shore when possible.

Check the weather and check the weather again. Gather all the data on a single sheet (download and use our KayakingSkills’ printable pdf form Saturna Island Kayak Day Trip short), especially if planning a full day trip. Look for less wind (unless you are looking for downwind paddling conditions and are skilled and fit for it), more sun and less precipitation. How much wind is ok for you will depend on your skill level. For many hobbyist kayakers winds above 12 knots feel challenging. Between Remembrance Day and March 20th, the marine weather forecast does not issue a “Strong Wind Warning” for our waters (which would be indicated at winds of 20 to 33 knots for the remainder of the year). If in doubt about the conditions, either do not go or remain in an area with easy and frequent landing options. There are windows of opportunity with sunny winter days. Enjoy the exhilarating experience of being in the fresh air on the water. It’s hard to beat!

Paddle with a partner. It is far safer to paddle with a similar or higher skill level partner. Email us to be included in our kayak group sessions. Join the Saturna Kayak Club if you are a resident of Saturna Island.

Float plan: Let someone know you are paddling, where to, and when you will be back. Make a clear arrangement with your float plan holder for the case that you are not back. Search parties in the dark are much more challenging than in daylight.

Go for shorter paddles and have an exit strategy to transition fast to getting dry and warm. Even an hour on the water feels great and you will need less time to warm up again if you get chilled or wet.

Launch and land safely: this starts with wearing the right clothing. If you try to avoid getting wet when launching and landing on a beach, you are increasing your risk of injury during these transitions. Balancing over a partially floating boat to stay dry is tempting, but not safe. Instead, wear clothing including booties that keep you warm and ideally dry. You can also launch from a dock if available. Check tides for water levels that will work for comfortable launching and landing at beaches.

Be conservative when leaving a sheltered bay: conditions around the corner may well be different. Our biggest concerns as paddlers are winds, waves and strong currents. Headlands often provide changing and challenging conditions.

Bring water, and an emergency snack, and if out for longer also pack warm liquids.

In addition to the usual safety equipment you legally must bring, make sure to always wear your PFD on the water and carry your VHF radio. I also bring a folded mylar emergency blanket in my dry bag.

Bonus tips: have some soup ready at home for when you return. All you got to do is heat it up slowly while you put away things from the trip and warm up. If you feel cold and cannot warm up easily, take a hot bath (remember to turn off that soup though till you are back to keep an eye on the stove).

Short Saturna Island shoreline paddles to do this winter – approx. total distance in nautical miles – time it takes when moving at good pace for intermediate sea kayaker (3 knots):

Winter Cove round trip – 1.5 NM – 30 min plus

Boot Cove round trip including loop around Trevor Islet – 1.75 NM – 40 min plus

Lyall Harbour around King and Queen Islets – 3 NM – 1 hr plus

Winter Cove and Irish Bay round trip – 3 NM – 1 hr plus

Boot Cove to Saturna Beach round trip – 4.5 NM – 1.5 hrs plus

Lyall Harbour to Saturna Beach round trip – 5.5 NM – 2 hrs plus (As you round various points, watch out for a change of sea state and make good judgement of your ability to paddle further prior continuing.)

Winter Cove to East Point one way – 6.5 NM – 2 hrs plus (Putting in at Winter Cove, make sure to check the currents for Boat Passage to go through at slack time. East Point take out point is a bit of a walk; a lightweight kayak pays off here. Doing this stretch one way is a good option if currents and / or winds are strong. You need to arrange transport on the other side prior going, and have some warm clothing and beverages stashed at take out. This can be a fast ride if currents are in favour.)

Saturna Beach to Taylor Point round trip – 6.5 NM – 2 hrs plus (Not many landing options. You need to qualify wind and waves before putting in and allow enough time. Beware that if winds are strong, paddling into them on the way back can be hard and slow you down to crawling speed at full effort. There is no take out option for your kayak at Taylor Point; be prepared to paddle both ways.)

If you catch a high tide at Lyall Harbour, be sure to check out Lyall Creek also. It is mystical in the wintertime when you can paddle a little into this otherwise hidden little gem.

If you love kayaking in the summertime, give winter paddling a chance. It is an amazing experience when picking the right day. Fred and I had some of the best paddles in winter. Tides are also often in favour for launching and landing.

Happy Winter Paddling!

Currents around Saturna Island

Saturna’s Currents Decoded

Here a link in case you missed our article titled “Saturna’s Tides Decoded”  which connects with this article.

The general direction of flood (feathered arrow) and ebb tidal streams around Saturna Island are shown in the image. Ebb and flood currents between Saturna and Pender Islands are generally less strong, and direction varies. For detailed information it is helpful to refer to the Current Atlas (Juan de Fuca Strait to Strait of Georgia) by Fisheries and Oceans. This spiral bound publication has 93 scenarios of current direction and rate for our wider area. The corresponding Murray’s Table (purchase printed or download for free (correct link when last checked September 2018)) connects each hour with the applicable page. Note that currents at Boat Passage and similar cannot be properly identified this way. Thick, fat arrows indicate strong currents of 2.5 knots and above! Be very cautious in the surrounding area.

Kayakers often travel close to shore and passing through back eddies that are circular currents running in reverse direction of the main current and are not necessarily indicated in the Current Atlas. I often look at bull kelp as I paddle to help me identify the direction of such currents.

Tumbo Channel currents always run toward East Point due to an eddie forming at Tumbo and Cabbage Islands. The only time the surface water does not move that way is when winds are stronger and force the surface water the other direction. Other than that, plan your sea kayaking trip taking advantage of the tidal stream whenever it is safe to do so (i.e. travel counter clockwise around Tumbo Island).

 

Boat Passage at Flood Current

Boat Passage at Flood Current

Visit Boat Passage once a while from shore and view it at different flow rates. You may see a still pond and an hour later a raging river. With currents as strong as 6 knots, it can run twice as fast as the speed of an average skilled paddler. At high speeds expect turbulent water with whirlpools also. If not understood, Boat Passage can become a one-way trip ending in a rescue scenario or at best a very long wait for a turn of tidal stream flow. You can however cross many narrow passages by sea kayak during a predictable window of opportunity when tidal horizonal movement turns, called slack tide. To work out how much time you have to get through a passage, you need to know slack time as well as the maximum ebb or flood of the current before and after slack (typically around 3 hours before and after). I am going to pick an example here around a new moon when tidal ranges are great. Let’s say that you want to get through Boat Passage on October 7th, 2018 and wonder when it is safe to do so. There is no current station measuring speeds and times here; data is derived from surrounding current stations. We find the numbers close to what happens. Look up maximum ebb (into Winter Cove), slack time and maximum flood currents (toward Vancouver) and click through to currents at Boat Passage (and choose the date):

Max Ebb: 4.3 knots

Slack: 9:21am

Max Flood: 5 knots

 

Apply the Slack Water Rule:

Period of Slack Water (minutes) = 60/Speed of Max Current (knots)

Period of Slack Water = 60/4.3 = 14 minutes (before slack)

Period of Slack Water = 60/5 = 12 minutes (after slack)

Total Period of Slack Water = 14+12 = 26 minutes (starting 14 minutes before slack water at 9:21, so at 9:07am)

 

This formula calculates how much time there is to safely get through a passage by sea kayak. Always arrive early, so that you can allow for variables and be flexible if conditions are beyond your skill level. If you are not sure it is safe, apply common sense and don’t cross till you have gained more skills as well as better judgement. Always be aware of your surroundings and other boats passing through, some of which are unable to move out of the way, if you move into theirs. Boat Passage is a very short passage and therefore travelling through it under the right conditions is fast. If you wanted to get through Active Pass, you want to be aware of the much longer distance and time needed to travel through it. If your paddling speed is 3 knots, just one knot of current against you, will slow you down to 2 knots. One nautical mile will take you 30 minutes instead of 20. While not the whole stretch of Active Pass encounters the strong currents, certain areas are extremely fast flowing with whirlpools and in addition ferry traffic and waves to look out for.

Great, now that you can figure out when to get through Boat Passage safely, think about the rest of your trip. Will you go to a destination beach and return in around six hours with the next slack time? Or will you carry on your journey to a different destination. If you are planning on going around Samuel Island, beware that the passage between Samuel and Mayne Island also has currents that can be significant for a paddler.

Tide, weather and current information relevant to Saturna Island can be found at the same link. Use this information for the Go-No-Go decision making process that we use in planning and launching a trip, considering various environmental factors.

In a future article I will share some insights on currents at Boiling Reef / East Point. Paddlers that were unfamiliar with the currents have gotten into trouble, needed to be rescued as well as capsized empty kayaks have floated across to US waters from here.

KayakingSkills.com provide Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking skills and instructor courses at various levels. We are planning a series of courses that will go in more detail with local weather, tides and currents, rescues and stroke clinics. Let us know what you are interested to learn more about.

Saturna’s Tides Decoded

The following information, observations and conclusions are from the perspective of a Saturna Island based Sea Kayaker and Paddle Canada certified Sea Kayaking Instructor and compiled to the best of her knowledge and experience over the past five years.

Tides move up and down, currents move side to side. Tides are actually long-period waves that roll around the planet as the ocean is “pulled” back and forth as the moon and sun interact with earth. The moon orbits earth and earth spins around the sun. The moon and sun both have a gravitational pull, strongly effecting large bodies of water. There is a repeating cycle as the moon orbits earth. The moon causes the majority of the gravitational pull. When sun, moon and earth align during full moon and new moon, the gravitational pull is amplified. Around two days later we experience the largest tides, called spring tides (think of “springing up and down”). This means that more water moves between low and high tides. During the first and third quarter moons, the gravitational pull is reduced, and we have smaller tidal ranges, called neap tides. Currents, also called tidal streams, are the horizontal effect of the tidal movement. While tides are biggest at spring tides, currents are also stronger as more water volume is pulled around earth. Due to the varied coastline and the many small islands in our area, slack water (when there is little to no current at the change of direction of tidal flow) does not necessarily occur simultaneously with high and low tide times, despite their correlation. The West coast of North America mostly experiences two high and two low tides of different heights each lunar day. This tidal pattern is called a mixed semi diurnal tide.

Which tidal station do I look up when paddling off Saturna Island? Primary tide stations that are relevant for Saturna Island are at Fulford Harbour on Salt Spring Island and Point Atkinson between Horseshoe Bay and West Vancouver. Saturna Island has two secondary tide stations: Tumbo Channel and Narvaez Bay and there is also Hope Bay on Pender Island nearby. I once wrote down tide predictions for Hope Bay, Tumbo Channel and Narvaez Bay, Fulford Harbour and Point Atkinson. I converted all the information into a graph and noticed that the difference and potential error margin for our purpose is too small to really fuss about (see graph). Especially when looking at Tumbo Channel, Hope Bay and Fulford Harbour: the graph looked almost identical for those three. Who knows, maybe I just picked a particularly good day to compare them 🙂

 

Keep predicted tide heights and possible variance due to wind and barometric pressure in mind when leaving your boat at the beach while going for walks or overnighting. Always secure your kayak with a rope too. High pressure systems can contribute to very low tides while low pressure systems can increase the height of a predicted high tide.

The Department of Fisheries and Oceans publishes tabulated printed data annually. You can buy Volume 5 for tidal stations of Juan de Fuca Strait & Strait of Georgia or get Tide information at Fisheries and Oceans. Tabulated data is easy to write down while a graph puts numbers visually into perspective and considers that tide heights increase fastest in the middle two hours between low and high tide (roughly six hours apart); both are useful tools.

Ensure that tide times are in PDT (Pacific Daylight Time) or PST (Pacific Standard Time, which you need to adjust during daylight savings in summer). In Canada, tides are measured in metres. Many websites work in feet and generate graphs which I find easy to relate to my needs. What interests us as when launching and landing a sea kayak in Lyall Harbour, is when the tide is going to be over four to five feet (by Fulford Harbour tide station). We prefer to avoid the otherwise inevitable mud battle. Intertidal zones are illustrated in green colour on nautical charts. Looking at a nautical chart for the area, you will notice how much intertidal zone there is at different beaches (look at Cabbage Island for example). Consider this when choosing launching and landing sites, especially when packing gear for overnight camping trips and dealing with low tides.

Kayaking along rocks with a large visible intertidal zone is particularly beautiful and interesting. Sea stars, sea urchins and other sea creatures, normally hidden, become visible at low tide. Take care when crossing fragile intertidal zones, seaweeds and eelgrass that provide fundamental ecosystems for the Salish Sea.

We have summarised sources of information for tide, weather and currents relevant to Saturna Island.

Use this information for the Go/No-Go decision making process that we use in planning and executing a trip, considering various environmental factors.

Ok, so we have figured out the relevant tide stations. And we understand that greater tide ranges happen at spring tides and smaller tidal ranges during neap tides. If you are looking for less currents, go kayaking during neap tides. If you are looking for more currents to play in, look for spring tides. All this is especially relevant when navigating through small passages like Boat Passage or around Boiling Reef off East Point. Our next article will decode currents around Saturna Island.

KayakingSkills.com offer Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking skills and instructor courses at various levels. We teach essential and relevant sea- man/woman -ship. We promise to educate and entertain you. You will get hands on experience with tides and currents in our courses when planning a sea kayaking trip. We help you identify hazards to avoid and risks to mitigate for your sea kayaking adventures. Our intermediate courses include current clinics in areas such as Boiling Reef, Tumbo Island and Boat Passage.

Happy Paddling!

forwards stroke with torso rotation

The Sea Kayaker’s Self Defence

No, this is not going to be a martial arts class… more like a lesson in self defense when wind and weather play more than you planned for.
Your forward stroke is your Number 1 safety stroke and if you do it badly, it can hurt through injury over time or because you cannot move fast enough to punch through wind or current. Honestly, it sometimes is a challenge to teach the importance of developing a powerful and efficient forward stroke. “Well, I am not here to go fast.” Is a response we often hear when we mention that we teach forward stroke in detail. I enjoy comfortably exploring the shorelines and their sea life by sea kayak. I often have no interest in going fast.
It wasn’t till we paddled on a one-day trip when weather changed unexpectedly, that I wished I had been able to go faster. I will share my experience which lead to me seeking further training to become a better paddler and eventually a Paddle Canada certified Sea Kayaking Instructor.
If you have been caught out kayaking before with wind picking up unexpectedly, or strong currents you did not familiarise yourself with, you may relate to this.
On the way home, we soon realised that winds had turned enough to make a smooth ride a rocky one with headwind and confused seas. What started out as a “walk along the shore” soon became an increasingly uncomfortable place and the immediate future suggested another hour of this ordeal. Conditions slowed us down, doubling the time it normally would take. In the beginning it felt like an adventurous and exciting time in the elements. Then, wrists started hurting, my right lower arm became sorer with every stroke. Yes, I was focussing on pushing, not pulling, the instructions I knew of, but it still was merely a hard wrist and arm workout. I just was not moving as fast as I should have for the energy that I expended. In retrospect I realise that things could have turned out much worse. In those days we did not carry a VHF radio and we were dressed for “on the water” not “in the water”. A prolonged battle in bad weather accompanied by injury can lead to capsize with potential cold water shock, cold water incapacitation, hypothermia and even death if unable to re-enter and no one there to help. We got off lightly when we made it home, exhausted and sore.
Later in this early year of sea kayaking, I developed symptoms that I would classify as a tennis elbow. I stuck to very short paddle trips because I knew paddling was hurting me and even felt pain when trying to open a cupboard in the kitchen. The kayaking season ended with reduced ability to go out on the water and enjoy the activity which I so loved.
I realise that the forward stroke, which sea kayakers spend 99% of their time on the water doing, is a critical and difficult stroke to perfect. When focussing on the forward stroke form, I found it rewarding to be able to move the kayak along further with equal energy input, but better technique.
Last year during my solo sea kayaking adventure around Saturna Island, I really started to appreciate how much stronger of a paddler I had become… not by sheer force, but by technique. Instead of using the small muscles of the arms I moved the paddle through the water using the large muscles that get activated in torso rotation and even include the leg muscles. This means that more muscle mass is used and less stress is placed on small muscles, reducing strain and risk of repetitive strain injuries. I was able to push through some currents at Boiling Reef, move into challenging winds and in some more waves than I would have felt comfortable with prior to working on my forward stroke. My wrists and arms are happy they have less of a load to handle. Regarding speed I know now: every little helps. And there is still more fine-tuning to do. The forward stroke is one that continuously can and should be developed.
Winds and waves can change, no matter how carefully you plan your trip. Head winds, currents, whirlpools and following seas can be trouble you did not anticipate. Unless there is a way to avoid the bad conditions by waiting them out in a safer place, having a powerful forward stroke is your best defense to get you out of such trouble. It also may mean for example that you reach your destination before darkness, that you can help a paddling peer who needs a tow or that you can get to a capsized kayaker faster.
Here are some tips that I find useful for developing a strong forward stroke: 1. Set up your “paddler’s box”. This is a strong position that allows force transference into the core, shoulders, and legs by encouraging torso rotation. Imagine an invisible large ball between you and your paddle shaft with your hands in a medium wide push up position, start with holding your hands out in front of you, wrists do not bend. 2. Rotate your torso (to involve the whole body by engaging your core, hips and legs in each stroke) then 3. Plant the blade near toe distance, unwind your torso and let the paddle exit the water roughly where your hips are. Continue the rotation, plant the opposite blade near toe distance for the next stroke and so on. Avoid loading the blade with water that you then lift up as you complete a stroke (unnecessary strain). Another common mistake is to pull your arm to far.
Don’t be tempted to lean back onto the back rest. Consider it useful for breaks and resting. Your posture should be upright with a slight forward tilt and straight back. Surprisingly, we have come across multiple “experienced” kayakers that held their paddle upside down. While it is possible to move forward like this, it is by no means efficient.
Long-distance paddlers mostly utilise slower and lower forward stroke technique (low angle touring stroke) with temporary use of steeper and faster strokes in certain demanding conditions. Ensure that your hand grip on the paddle shaft is firm enough to have steady control and loose enough to remain relaxed. You can even open the hand that is in forward motion (wind permitting). This is a reminder to avoid tensing up and straining your arms.
Know your speed: keep track of the distance you cover and the time it takes. Do this several times to get an average. 3 knots (nautical miles per hour) is often used as a typical paddler’s speed. In our experience, this is a casual speed for an intermediate paddler. If you like to stop for pictures, lunch etc., add time. Also beware that getting home can be a different “paddle game” altogether, depending on wind, currents, sea state, visibility, your state and the rest of the group.
We know that launching from Lyall Harbour beach, going around King and Queen Islands (named King on the nautical chart) and back, makes up around 3 nautical miles. Do this in one hour and your speed is 3 knots.
Here are some videos that you may also find useful.
KayakingSkills’ courses teach efficient use of your body mechanics for a powerful and effective forward stroke, your best self defense when seas turn rough unexpectedly and you need to get out of trouble fast. The forward stroke is taught in all our courses and progressively fine-tuned in our intermediate courses.
We cover essential knowledge on being safe on the water during your day and multi-day trips.
Find out more about our forward stroke clinics and kayaking safety courses here or by contacting us.

clouds

Marine Weather Workshop Report

Let’s face it: talking about the weather can be a dry or wet subject.

Not so at the April 14th Marine Weather Workshop with Tony Merry from the Pender Island Squadron.
13 eager students gathered in the Community Hall on Saturna Island to talk about the weather.
The weather man brought some good weather humor with him too.

Here are some weather nuggets for those that missed this Marine Weather Course with Tony Merry, hosted by KayakingSkills.com:

The sun causes our weather.

We are surrounded by air which is 78% nitrogen and only about 21% oxygen.
So, when Tony fills his car tires with air, he uses 78% nitrogen 😊

Without water as vapour, liquid or solid, there would be no weather.

We looked at a surface analysis NOAA (National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration) printout that gives a good picture of the weather that is approaching from the Pacific. We learned to make more sense of this surface analysis with its isobars, fronts, highs and lows.

Cold fronts move faster than warm fronts and when they catch up, we end up with a TROWAL (Trough of warm air aloft).

Wind moves from high to low pressure.

Isobars are 4 mbar apart. The closer the lines of the isobars, the stronger the winds.

In the Southern Gulf Islands, the prevailing winds are South Easterlies (wind moves from whatever direction is indicated).

Buys-Ballot’s Law: “If you stand with your back to the wind in the Northern Hemisphere, pressure is lower to your left.”

Wave height is influenced mostly by wind speed, duration of wind and fetch. Fetch is the distance the wind blows over an open water surface. The largest waves will be generated when the wind speed, time frame, and fetch are greatest.

Clouds are mainly defined by the height of their base above the ground and their shape.
High clouds are composed of ice crystals, giving them a white and bright appearance. Medium and lower hanging clouds may include ice crystals, but often mostly water droplets and look greyer.
Clouds high in the sky give information about future weather tendencies, lower clouds are relevant for present weather conditions.

Whether you are inside the fog or looking at a low-lying cloud is merely a matter of perspective 😊

To determine the height of cumulus clouds, check this out: is the cloud element bigger or smaller than your 3 fingers held next to each other at armlength? Bigger: it is lower (stratocumulus). Smaller: it is higher (altocumulus).

And then there are clouds of vertical development that we need to look out for…

Hail only comes from cumulonimbus clouds. Therefore, we know what clouds were over Saturna Island on April 7th (2018), when hail fell and thunder and lightning hit Saturna Island. Though rare for thunder and lightning to be quite as close to home here, it does happen.

KayakingSkills.com occasionally hosts workshops and speakers about being safe on the water; especially interesting for kayakers and boaters. Drop us an email if you like to be informed about future events. All kayaking courses conducted by KayakingSkills.com cover a relevant marine weather overview also.